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ROADHEAD/ TAKH to TSOK MESIK (4100m) [3hrs]
Traverse across scree and descend to flat benches above the Tsarap river.
Follow the true right bank of the Tsarap for 3 hours. Easy walking through areas
of willow, grass and shrubs. Tsok Mesik is a large area of willow and tamarisk
on a river bend. This is also the junction with the trail that heads to the
Morang La.
TSOK MESIK TO SATOK (4027m) [7.5 hours].
Initially easy walking over flat plateaus then begins to climb as the river
descends into the gorge. A fine cantilever bridge crosses the river at this
point. The path climbs to a shoulder and splits, take either trail, the higher
trail is a better traverse, the lower trail goes past an impressive wolf trap,
the trails meet at the crest of the next shoulder. Continue traversing and
climbing over another 4 or five shoulders (you can see them in the distance!),
the tops of some are marked with a small lhato. Before arriving at Satok the
trail crosses descends almost to the river and then traverses on steep slopes
through cliffs and a small waterfall before arriving at the deserted village.
Carry more water on this day as there is little opportunity to refill bottles.
There is a stream at a small doksa after around 5 hours but it is often dry.
SATOK TO HORMOCH (4059m) [7 hours]
Trekking to Hormoch the trail follows the river into the arid gorge created
by the Tsarap chu. After crossing some flat plateaus the route picks its way
along the steep rock and shale slopes, repeatedly climbing up and down in order
to find a way through the varying terrain. After 2 hours pass a big juniper tree
and descend to river, cross and walk through Moneleh, a collection of ruined
houses. The path leaves Moneleh and carries on into the gorge, again on steep
rocky slopes. After another 1.5 hours reach cantilever bridge do not cross but
continue on the right bank to Tichup (half an hour) and cross the Zara Chu river
(End of August onwards). Ascend to the top of the conglomerate cliffs and
continue along flat benches to Hormoch, a small deserted settlement and fields
between and opposite Yarshun and Marshun.
HORMOCH TO LOW CAMP VIA GOTUNTA LA PASS (4400m via 5147m) [10 hours]
Leaving Hormoch you bid farewell to the Tsarap chu and enter a narrow side
canyon. Steeply ascending out of this canyon the trail swings back to the west
and climbs onto a shoulder above a sea of arid peaks and shattered rock. Afer a
long rising traverse the route crosses a number of shoulders weaving in and out
of view before a short descent to a small, usually dry, pond. From here the
route ascends a broad steep gully across talus to the pass (5147m). The
spectacular view to the west provides a glimpse of the country that you will be
traversing over the coming days. Descending a huge sweeping face of talus the
trail drops and eventually curves around to cross a flat plateau before making a
gradual rising contour to a ridge line before making a shallow descent to the
Nyalo Kontse La (4800m). The trail descends through alpine vegetation, there is
a small spring half way down and several constructed tent platforms.
Alternatively an extra 1-2 hours will complete the descent and camp near the
Niri Chu.
LOW CAMP TO SHADE (4236m) [3 hours]
Within an hour of walking encounter the fields of Tantak, a small settlement
and gompa (monastery), perched above the trail. From here the trail again heads
into a narrowing valley and shortly you encounter the huge lhato of juniper and
flags demarking the outer limits of Shade (pron. Sha-dé), one of Zanskar’s
remotest permanent settlements. The trail enters an impressive side canyon that
eventually leads to lush meadows. The village is about an hour or so above the
canyon and is surrounded by chorten of varying antiquity.
TREK TO LAR, VIA GAUTANG LA AND LAR LA (4263m via 4898 & 4681m) [7 hours]
From Shade follow the trail used to link the village to various seasonal
settlements (doksa). The trail makes a fairly gradual climb to the Gautang La
(4800m) with a short steep section about 0.5 hours before the top of the pass.
Descending the far side of the pass to the valley bottom there are two groups of
stone corrals. The trail climbs steeply above the second set of corrals from the
river and cuts through an area of broken rock and cliff and then makes a rising
traverse across the hillside providing exceptional views of several peaks around
the sTongde La. The path contours until it reaches the Lar La (4681m) and then
once again it plunges steeply to the floor of the side valley; you should arrive
at Lar to find Shade’s doksa, a temporary structure of corrals and yak wool
tents.
SHADE TO HIGH CAMP (4547m) (5 hours)
The trail takes a diagonal ascending line to leave Lar and once again finds
the Niri Chu. Contouring, the trail eventually joins the river an hour or so up
valley. There is a good chance of seeing blue sheep in this area so it is worth
getting an early start before the horses leave. The trail meanders back and
forth for several hours across the river, but the water is usually low and
broken into braided channels at this point so crossings are rarely problematic.
The upper Niri valley is beautiful walking. This high alpine valley eventually
splits into three and you take the left fork to a camp that is about 30 minutes
above the junction.
HIGH CAMP TO LOW CAMP VIA PENAK LA (4221m via 5179m) (7 hours)
Follow the trail which makes a long gradual ascent to the crest of the pass,
the top of the pass is a broad flat saddle which takes 0.5hrs to cross.
Descending from the Penak La the trail makes a series of switchbacks before
slowly dropping to the valley floor, after 2hrs or so of descent reach an area
of willow where there is good water and flat areas for a camp. Good possibility
of seeing blue sheep and ibex.
LOW CAMP TO ZANGLA SUMDO (3803m) (4-5 hours)
The trail descends into the narrowing valley beneath the camp, eventually
negotiating a steep area of boulders before dropping into a thickly wooded area
of willow. Again heading downstream the trail crosses the river around 20 times.
Unless there has been rain or early snow the river is not deep but there is
slippery algae in places and the constant need to get in and out of water is
tiring. Having good protective footwear that one can walk in when wet is
essential for this section. Eventually the valley widens into a sheltered grassy
area, pass Tsazar Doksa and reach Zangla sumdo – the junction with the trail to
Charcha La.
TREK TO ZANGLA (3400m) (4-5 hours)
From Zangla Sumdo the trail descends into a narrow gorge and the path
repeatedly crosses the river. The views today are limited to a number of slot
canyons and impressive geological folding across many of the cliff faces.
However, once nearing Zangla after completeing another 20 or so river crossings
the valley begins to open out. From the headworks of Zangla’s new irrigation
canal follow the trail up from the river and cross a small col next to Zangla
palace. Descend to Zangla.
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